PrusaSlicer is an open-source, feature-rich, frequently updated tool that contains everything you need to export the perfect print files for not only your Original Prusa 3D printer. PrusaSlicer is available for Windows, Mac and Linux. Slic3r spread among users quickly. When Josef Prusa was looking for a leading slicing software for Original Prusa printers the choice fell on Slic3r. It was and still is an open-source and very powerful software. Jo and Alessandro in video interview.
However, as Prusa Research was growing very, very, very fastwe needed to be more flexible with the slicing software development. We needed to make changes to the software, and the changes had to be done asap.
We also needed to add more features. At this point the co-operation with the detached original Slic3r team was unsustainable. The bottom line is that we decided to establish a fork of the original Slic3r project. Slic3r Prusa Edition was released in November — read more about the launch here. A dedicated team of full-time Slic3r PE developers was established and new functions were being added rapidly.
These changes culminated in Maywhen we released a new version with a major UI overhaul under a new name - PrusaSlicer 2. Why the name change?
First of all, the old name was really confusing. Speaking about the original Slic3r: with each update, Slic3r PE was moving further and further away from its original code.
Both projects now happily coexist and new features are frequently merged between one and another. If you have a question about something that isn't covered here, check out our additional resources.
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Is there Z hop
Contact us.In order to troubleshoot the issue correctly, it is crucial to recognize in which axis did the layers shift. See the three photos below demonstrating three different kinds of layer shifts.
Troubleshooting itself is the same for both axes. The stealth mode is perfect for small and simple objects. For bigger or more complex prints, the Normal mode is recommended. Also, note that in Stealth mode, the Crash detection feature is not available. Make sure there are no obstructions in the path of the extruder or heatbed and their bearings.
For example, there might be a piece of filament stuck around the belt usually around the Y-axis pulley from your previous prints. Another instance of obstruction is when the zip ties or another part of the extruder cable bundle are not arranged according to 5.
E-axis assembly. See the photo below and make sure the cables are arranged accordingly. Also, verify if the smooth rods don't bear any deep scratches and if the bearings are properly lubricated. Make sure the X and Y motor is tightened in the motor mount, that the pulley orange arrows in the picture below is secured on the motor shaft and aligned with the pulley on the opposite end, and that the pulley can move freely.
Both grub screws need to be tight, one of them has to be tightened against the flat part of the motor shaft.Lundicisettembre è finito !
A loose pulley is usually the main cause of staircase layer shifts. Both pulleys on both axes also have to be alignedmeaning the motor pulley has to be well centered and the belt has to be moving in a straight line, not traveling from right to left while the pulley is turning.
Check your belt-tension. The values should not be under and abovebut there is no single ideal value. The number does not represent any quantity. The MK2. The clue we can give you is that the belt should sound roughly like a low bass string when plucked. It should be possible to pinch the two sides together with your thumb and index finger, but you should feel a little bit of resistance.Poker hand range chart
Use the technique described in this step of the assembly manual to test if the pulley is correctly tightened and if the belt is not too loose. Hold the X-axis motor shaft with pliers take advantage of the flat part of the shaft and try to move with the extruder. The same procedure can be applied to test the Y-axis pulley and belt. Objects with overhangs are generally harder to print. Some overhangs might even warp upwards during the print, and the nozzle might crash into them.
The same can happen in some cases if you choose too small infill percentage when slicing the 3D model. To prevent printing overhangs, you can cut the object check out our article on the Cut tool.
You can also try to increase the print fan speed or increase the Z-hop distance in PrusaSlicer. Make sure that belts are properly tightened. Belts should be tight enough to sound like a low bass note when plucked. If the belts are loose, tighten them first: first, loosen the two screws as depicted below. Then, tighten the two screws at the very end of the X-axis. They go directly against the metal rods, so the more tightened they are, the further you move the plastic part.
Once you are done, tighten the first two screws again to fix the part in place.GitHub is home to over 50 million developers working together to host and review code, manage projects, and build software together. Have a question about this project? Sign up for a free GitHub account to open an issue and contact its maintainers and the community.
Already on GitHub? Sign in to your account. The lift z option in retraction settings reverts to previous value automatically when I set it to 0. Duplicate of I had to play around with editing the textbox value repeatedly but I did eventually get it to refuse to take 0 once.
Hard to find a rhyme or reason. Have you tried 0. I know it seems odd but also try 0. This is a duplicate of It should be solved now, the fix will be in PrusaSlicer 2.
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Jump to bottom. Copy link Quote reply. Version 2. Try pressing Enter after changing to 0.Nozzle does not lift during travel over the print Posted by Sardi. I thought my X rod was completely dry from the sound of the nozzle slamming the print, but after careful look it turns out that the nozzle does not lift when it retracts and travels and it hits the print all the way. How do I fix this? Regards, Antonio Edited 1 time s.
Reply Quote. The nozzle does not retract - it stays at the same level all the time while printing a layer. The only retraction that takes place is of the filament to prevent oozing.
It is normal for the nozzle to bump over the print a bit on non-printing moves. If you get a particularly bad curl-up which can happen, especially on an overhangthe nozzle can catch on it and dislodge the print or cause the axis to skip a step - but then the curl-up would almost certainly have resulted in a bad print anyway.
On a part that has overhangs prone to curling you can try printing at a lower temperature, and fitting a cooling fan would probably help as well.
On some prints I have to stand ready with a flat tool or needle file and push down the curl-ups between layers while it is printing. Dave Reply Quote. Well the sound that the nozzle makes is all but not nice and it leaves marks on the printout. I dont see why shouldnt the nozzle be lifted a little bit just not to hit on the printed part, cause I print small long parts 13cm x 1,3cm x 4mm and the nozzle hits the printout pretty hard damaging it on the way.
Cura has Z-hop and Slic3r has Lift Z, im setting it both to 0,1mm, just enought for the nozzle not to hit the printed parts. The Lift is set with your slicing software not obn the printer. The printer does not distinguish between printing moves and moving moves. If your nozle does not lift during a print, your slicer is not configured to do this.
Exactly that DasBasti. I heard the nozzle dragging itself on the printout before and I dont know now why I didnt pay more attention to it. Z lift is definitely something worth activating if the nozzle kicks the printout too much as it is my case.Anker a7852m driver
Quote Sardi Well the sound that the nozzle makes is all but not nice and it leaves marks on the printout. In Cura I have just printed a file with Z hop Cura with 0,1mm setting and the file was "intact", nozzle didnt hit it and it looks much nicer.
Quote dmould.Unless the material being extruded has a very high viscosity it will ooze from the nozzle in between extrusions. There are several settings in Slic3r to which can help to remedy this. The retraction settings, found in the Extruder section of Printer tab, tell the printer to pull back the filament between extrusion moves. This can alleviate the pressure in the nozzle, thus reducing ooze. After the subsequent travel move the retraction is reversed to prepare the extruder for the next extrusion.
Length - The number of millimeters to retract. Note that the measurement is taken from the raw filament entering the extruder. A value of between 1 and 2mm is usually recommended. Bowden extruders may need up to 4 or 5mm due to the hysteresis introduced by the tube.
Lift Z - Raises the entire extruder on the Z axis by that many millimeters during each travel. This can be useful to ensure the nozzle will not catch on any already laid filament, however it is usually not necessary and will slow the print speed. A value of 0. Speed - The speed at which the extruder motor will pull back the filament. The value should be set to as quick as the extruder can handle without skipping steps, and it is worth experimenting with this value to find the quickest retraction possible.Retraction Calibration
Extra length on restart - Adds an extra length of filament after the retraction is compensated after the travel move. This setting is rarely used, however should the print show signs of not having enough material after travel moves then it may be useful to add a small amount of additional material.
Minimum travel after retraction - Triggering a retraction after very short moves is usually unnecessary as the amount of ooze is usually insignificant and it slows down the print times. Set the number of millimeters minimum distance the nozzle must move before considering a retraction.
If the printer handles ooze well this can be increased to 5 or 6mm. Retract on layer change - Movement along the Z axis must also be considered when dealing with oozing, otherwise blobs may occur.
It is recommended to leave this setting on. Wipe before retract - Moves the nozzle whilst retracting so as to reduce the chances of a blob forming. Additionally there are several settings in the Print tab which can help control oozing. Only retract when crossing perimeters Infill - Tells Slic3r to only retract if the nozzle will cross the threshold of the current island being extruded. Slight ooze within the walls of a part are not seen and can usually be accepted.
Avoid crossing perimeters Layers and perimeters - Advanced - Will force the nozzle to follow perimeters as much as possible to minimise the number of times it must cross them when moving around, and between, islands. This has a negative impact on both G-code generation and print times. See also section : Sequential Printing for another technique which can minimise strings forming between objects.
Retraction settings.GitHub is home to over 50 million developers working together to host and review code, manage projects, and build software together. Have a question about this project? Sign up for a free GitHub account to open an issue and contact its maintainers and the community.
Already on GitHub? Sign in to your account. Enabling Z-hop eliminates blobbing caused by ooze on the side of prints, just as it's intended to do. This creates thin, wispy stringing.
This phenomenon happens even when retraction and "wipe while retracting" are enabled - it seems to be an inherent issue simply with the act of lifting the nozzle while the nozzle is over the print. Disabling Z-hop more or less fixes this, since during the travel move the nozzle is "wiped" clean as it moves off of the finished printed part and no string is pulled up. However, due to oozing during the travel move, a visible blob may be left on the side of new part that the nozzle is starting.
This can be improved by making travels faster and tuning retraction settings, but it can't always be eliminated entirely - especially with longer travels. As I see it the best option here is to combine the two behaviors.
Nozzle does not lift during travel over the print
To start a travel, the print head would move off the just-finished object without hopping. This would wipe off the nozzle and eliminate the possibility of "pulling" up a string.
However, during the travel move the print head would perform a Z-hop move between objects in midair, so that as it crosses the perimeter of the new object, no blob is left. This should be implemented as a toggleable option - it does not have to replace the current Z-hop option entirely. This is exactly what I've been thinking while trying to find optimal settings for complex prints lots of small details.
This might help to avoid dragging issues and keep away from oozing. It would be nice to have this option implemented. Slic3r's behavior for wipe is to follow the last path in reverse. It is a good solution in general to avoid artifacts, but since the layer often ends in infill and in a corner which makes the nozzle be around the same spot for longerwhat you get is partial overheating on the surface, which then facilitates molten plastic to be lifted.
Cura fares better in this area, using a different approach to wiping which is called "combing". It's a lot quicker too on small features. I very much agree with the description by karlzhao I have experimented by modifying slic3r with the idea of doing z lift at the same time as the horizontal travel. The unlift remains as before ie vertically downward. This is giving me petg prints with much reduced stringing than I would get with vertical z lift, and with much less blobs than I would get with no z lift.
The wipe behavior I've observed is documented at Notably, PrusaSlicer appears to always do a small wipe at full travel speed. The "wipe during retraction" option merely extends that wipe into the retraction period.
Hi I experimented with this and generated a comparison set of prints with Z hop increasing during travel and this worked really well to fix stringing and ooze. I need good layer strenth and reducing nozzle temperature is not an acceptable solution as the less stringy material PETG in my case is weaker. Thanks, the test peices work but it would be nice to trial in the actual slicer, Cura has the option to avoid printed parts on travel which would help this situation but I think an S curve would be more optimal as you sugeest but makes the path more complex.
I I would be happy with linear ramp or perhaps a horizontal start minmimum of two wall widths, followed by 30 degree ramp to Z Hop height and then level off. How easy would it be to programme this?Oppo f7 screen mirroring option
As I envisioned it, ideally you'd have the nozzle wipe off the print traveling basically horizontal, then initiate the upward motion after the nozzle is already traveling in midair - something similar to this. Of course, curved moves put more computational load on the motion planner, so something like this would accomplish the same effect.PrusaSlicer is a feature-rich, frequently updated tool that contains everything you need to export the perfect print files for your Original Prusa 3D printer.
PrusaSlicer is available for Windows, Mac and Linux. Get PrusaSlicer now! Full release log and the latest unstable builds on Github. PrusaSlicer is based on Slic3r by Alessandro Ranellucci. It's completely free and open-source. Thanks to the strong community and core team of developers in Prusa Research we can continually add new functionality. You can follow the development process on Github. Slic3r was always known to be powerful and versatile, but some features were difficult to use, if not outright hidden behind obscure menus and dialogs.
Our goal with the reworked UI was to expose all the power features while making the UI clear and simple to use at the same time. PrusaSlicer lets you create support blockers and enforcers.
With support enforcers, you can turn automatic supports off and select specific parts which need supports. We are adding profiles on regular basis, following materials by the most popular manufacturers. You will get new profiles automatically through auto-update function. In PrusaSlicer, you can select the layer height for each part of the object separately. Our software takes care of smoothing so the final print looks best as it can and the printing time remains acceptable. Check out the video.
PrusaSlicer includes built-in firmware flasher for Original Prusa i3 printers. You can just connect your printer to computer via USB cable and easily flash the firmware via PrusaSlicer. Don't forget to upgrade your printer regularly!
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